Je hebt er een nodig waarmee je zware grafische taken kunt uitvoeren en waar je games zonder haperingen op kunt spelen. Ben je niet per se op zoek naar een laptop om mee te gamen? Bekijk dan ons andere artikel waar je de beste laptops qua prijs en kwaliteit kunt bekijken.
Je moet jezelf dus de vraag stellen of je de laptop voor alleen games wilt gebruiken of dat je hem ook wilt gebruiken voor werk of school. Dat maakt zeker wel uit bij je keus voor een geschikte gaming laptop. Waar je op moeten letten bij de aanschaf Weet je inmiddels waar je de laptop voor wilt gebruiken, dan ga je kijken naar diverse specificaties die onmisbaar zijn voor het spelen van games.
Een zo een belangrijke specificatie is de grootte van de videokaart. Deze bepaalt met hoeveel frames per seconde je een game kunt spelen. Er zijn zwaardere te krijgen maar dat hangt af van de grootte van je games.
Om een helder beeld tijdens het spelen te behouden, zorg je ervoor dat je beeldscherm een minimale resolutie moet hebben van Full HD. Hoe meer, hoe beter. Games speel je vaak in de avonden of in het donker, een verlicht toetsenbord helpt je om de juiste toetsen te kunnen vinden tijdens het gamen.
Ook de grote van de processor is belangrijk zodat hij niet traag wordt. En tot slot, let op het gewicht en de grote van de laptop als je hem vaak ergens mee naartoe neemt om je games te spelen. Met deze videokaart kun je een aantal games op hoge instellingen spelen. Dat zorgt ervoor dat je computer snel blijft werken. David Kuhajda dkuhajda locl. Whatever you do, do NOT use alcohol on an organically based drum, it will ruin it. The alcohol causes the material to crystalize.
I use to do copier service and this was stressed a lot by the manufacture as they switched from the old selenium drums to the new opc drums. Direct sunlight will immediately destroy the drum. A couple of minutes under normal lighting is no problem, just place it in a dark area and put a black cloth over the top of the drum while it is out.
If you are replacing the drum cleaning blade or cleaning the crud off the blade, make sure you powder up the drum completely and the blade before reapplying power. The toner actually is a slight lubricant and the rubber cleaning blade directly on the drum will also ruin it.
Just print a few low text copies after reassembling to allow the blade to reseat properly. Short periods less than 5 min under fluorescent lighting is safe. Direct sunlight kills them immediately. Just have a clean brown paper bag to shove it into while it sits on the table outside the machine. Book on laser printer maintenance and rapair From: Michael ncacaver aol.
Get the book: Your local library should have it or be able to get it. Stephen J. Bigelow has several other books on printer repair, both laser and non laser types. All are very good. Discussion on laser diodes in laser printers "I just acquired the optics from a dead laser printer and have been trying to understand it. There are two functions I have yet to grasp. One is something which it has but for which I see no need.
If these the laser is temperature controlled, why? There seems to be a control photodetector to monitor the laser diode so temperature control appears like overkill unless the photodiode itself has too much temperature dependence and the drum exposure is very critical. Jonathan M. Elson jmelson artsci. There is a heater inside the fuser roller. This is what melts the toner into the paper. It is thermostatically controlled, and then has a safety thermostat in case the control fails.
There are two photodetectors for the laser. One compensates for dimming of the laser over years of use, the other picks up the beam at a particular angle of the polygon mirror, and synchronizes the raster electronics to the polygon rotation.
So far I must admit the study has been a bit superficial but the aperture ought to be pretty obvious if there is one! With an optical path of 0. A simple lens makes it look like a very good point source. They look like slices out of the middle of some fair sized lenses, but that would be a very wasteful way to make them.
Can they be diamond formed to nearly the final shape and with such good finish so only a simple polish completes them. Grinding the old-fashioned way on a sliver of glass looks doomed to generating all sorts of defective approximations to a sphere.
As far as I can tell they are glass, or some wonderfully hard plastic I would like to know more about! Can they be molded to sufficient precision? The sides are ground or sawn. Thanks to anyone who can bring me up to date on lens fabrication technique. Note that almost all eyeglasses are aspheric for astigmatism correction. Yes, these lenses are glass, I've had a few printers apart myself. Types of toner From: Lionel Wagner ck FreeNet.
There are two basic kinds of toner: If your laser printer has a Cannon 'engine' it most likely uses magnetic. NEVER use the wrong type. The imaging process is extremely delicate and specific toners are important. Use of toner that is slightly different could result in all black or all white copies. So you put in the wrong type of toner? I believe it is a re-badged Lanier.
I didn't pay much for it but it worked well. When the toner warning light came on, I made the mistake of adding the wrong kind of toner. I removed the wrong toner as much as I could by vacuum. Is there anything I should do before adding the right type of toner? Did I do serious damage to the system? What to do if the warning light remained on even with the right type of toner added? Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated. If your copier uses non-magnetic toner, it is mixed with iron powder, called the Developer.
Both have to be removed and all residue vacuumed out. If the copier uses magnetic toner, less of it will remain in the machine. Try to get as much as possible out. Do not scratch the roller on which the toner sits. See the section: Warnings about vacuuming laser printer toner before using a household vacuum cleaner to do this! The only things I touched were the rod that the head assembly slides on and the toothed belt also had to come off I don't think it's a timing belt..
When I try to print, the head moves to the center, there's no pin action and it starts beeping at two second intervals and won't stop. It's not the paper sensors because they seem to work properly Filip M. Gieszczykiewicz filipg repairfaq. A few: Make sure you didn't trap and crimp any wires.. The print head will activate it during the self-init. BTW, move the carriage all the way to the right, close the cover and turn it on - does the print head move or does it just sit there and beep?
Don't forget to oil not too much! Did you reconnect all the cables? More depends on the answers and results of the above. BTW, most newer dot-patrix printers just need 2 screws to be removed to release the head.
I know the Epson LQ works like that and many of that Stars as well. Anyones needs parts from the former? I have one with a dead head and it's not economical to repair. Print head repair "I have a few Epson dot matrix print heads with stuck or sunken pins. It looks like you just have to pop a few clips to get them apart. Chris Serrano brace loop. I resurrected one by hanging it pins downs in an ultrasonic cleaner. A lot of old dried up ink floated right out and the stuck pin became obedient again.
If one does not have the use of an ultrasonic cleaner, I have found a different way to get these suckers working again. This stuff is a combination of groovy chemicals Methyl Ethyl Ketone and Acetone. It will 'melt' most plastics so be sure the print-head's any plastic parts are safely taken off. Pour some of this stuff into a GLASS container and put the print head, business-end first, in it and leave it there for a few minutes.
When the stuff turns dark-purple all the ink and goo from the print head you are done. WD40 just leaves a 'protective layer' with almost zilch lubricating properties it's a Water Displacer WD , after all. I have done this for a few DataSouth DS, Infoscribe s, and Xerox [monster] printers that see a box of column paper a month each for a number of years with excellent results. I don't know how a pin Made-in-China feather will respond.
Ribbon does not advance after replacing flex-cable Have you actually confirmed that your 'new' ribbon cables are making proper contact - with an ohmmeter?
Assuming that the thing worked better before the cables were cut, then there are only two possibilities: Print head stepper Confirm that you simply don't have bad solder connections around the plug to the motor.
This is common in printers and will result in erratic or incorrect motor movement. Ralph Wade Phillips ralphp gcstation. I do not know for sure if it's corrosive, conductive, or just plain nasty, but it kills the stepper deader'n'snot. Motor driver blows fuses The following was in response to a dot matrix printer blowing the power fuse whenever the paper advance motor was driven. A 74LS was getting hot as well: Tony Duell ard pug1. I'm going to guess based on what I've seen in other printers that there's a set of power transistors either H-bridge drivers or 1 per coil, depending on the motor that drive the stepper.
These transistors are driven from the printer's microcontroller via an output port - in this case the ' Now, if a TTL chips is getting very hot, then either something is drawing too much current from it, or something is overvoltaging one of the pins.
If you're unlucky, the next stage is that the output port device breaks down as well, and the CPU data bus gets 20V or more on it. The result is blown chips all over the printer. Please don't ask how I found that out ;- My guess is that there's at least one shorted transistor in the stepper motor drive circuit.
If the system uses an H-bridge driver an equal number of NPN and PNP transistors then if one transistor shorts, its companion is connected across the power rails. When it turns on, the supply is effectively shorted. I think you'll have to trace out the driver circuit for the stepper motor. Figure out what drives what. Ribbon on electronic typewriter does not advance "My wife has a "Smith Corona" Model SD electronic typewriter that will not advance the ribbon.
Everything else seems to work fine. We have been unable to find a local repair for this unit. I think I can fix it with some advice from someone familiar with these machines. For example, with the ribbon removed, does the gear or post that drives it appear to try to turn or not at all? Modern electronic typewriters are a combination of keyboard, microprocessor, and printer. Therefore, the same sort of troubleshooting approachs can be used as for computer printers.
Common electronic problems include bad connections to the motor that advances the ribbon cold solder joints, cracks in traces on flex cable to carriage , bad motor driver chip, or bad motor. Mechanical problems include stripped or broken gears, misalignment preventing advance mechanism from engaging, and defective ribbon cartridge. Roger D. Waddell rwaddell peachnet. This problem is usually caused by a broken 'E' clip on the bottom of the print hammer solenoid.
When the clip breaks, the lever falls out of position and never trips the lever that assists in feeding the ribbon. I have seen this problem many times!! It squeals when the carriage moves. It still prints perfectly fine, but Does anyone have any experience with this problem and his solution?
I imagine it would take only a drop or two of lubricant. But where? Chris Jardine cjardine wctc. I would suggest that you might have a problem with the ribbon mask. A few years ago I was the service manager at an Apple dealership. I can't tell you how many ribbon masks I replaced for many different problems, including wierd noises. It could also be a problem with the carriage drive motor. You might try some very fine maybe silicone oil there and you might want to clean and then re-oil the carriage guide bar the shiny round bar and the bushings on the carriage that ride on the bar.
The only other possibility would be a problem in the gears below the ribbon that are responsible for driving the ribbon. Compaq Pagemarq 15 printer service mode From: Darren Mckillop Darren. Mckillop gecm. Try powering on while holding escape, this will put you into service mode. Press the up arrow to start the engine test, if this works you may have a problem with the xerox controller board.
Remove this by the two thumbscrews at the back and slide out as far as you can then pull the cable off. Epson FXe printer problems "I just received the above printer in a non-working condition. It exhibits the following symptoms: When power is applied, the head appears to try and move, but will not unless you manually get it started. Then it goes to its home position. You then hear three beeps, and nothing else can be done to elicit any response from the printer. The power LED comes on, but the paper-out will not, regardless if there is paper installed or not.
I have also mapped out the stepper motor leads, and resistance checks show that it appears to be ok. MY question is if perhaps I lost one of the outputs for one of the stepper phases. The controller seems to be one large power-ic from what I've traced out. Do you have a scope? You could check the phases. If you lose power to one phase, will the other phases keep it going provided you manually start it like I'm doing? It doesn't explain your other problems, however. Once initialized, even though the print head doesn't move properly, I would expect the printer to work in other respects.
Joe Wagg jwagg fs. The 3 beeps tell you there's a carriage error, probably from an incorrect number of steps needed to reach the home position. Since you've already checked the motor, the next step is to check the motor drivers. Using a meter with a diode check function, put the red lead on ground and the black lead on each phase coming from the board disconnect the motor first.
The readings should be within 20 percent of each other, not open or shorted. Also make sure the motor, pulleys, and carriage are all relatively clean and move freely. The other symptoms are caused by the carriage error, which halts the cpu to prevent damage. Clear up the carriage error and the other problems should go away.
You should also make sure that all socketed chips are properly seated and don't have dirty contacts. Paper debris clogging Epson LQ "I have an Epson LQ series dot-matrix printer that has developed an intermittent paper feed problem over the past year or so. It uses a push tractor for sprocket-feed paper, and paper tends to bunch up under the platen.
There doesn't seem to be an obvious way to remove the platen to see what the paper's catching on, indeed the FAQ on Epson's website says it can't be removed, and to bring it in to the dealer for repair.
Asimov Asimov juxta. Remove everything that is normally accessible. Then flip the printer on its back and play a vigorous drum roll all over it. This should dislodge a huge amount of "holes". Didn't you always wonder where those perforations went?
Well, some of them make it into clogging up under the platten. Flip the printer on its side and with a thin brush dust the remaining grime away. If the jam didn't clear up you might try manually inserting a stiffer paper postcard, greeting card, etc a few times before dismantling the platen assembly any further. Was working fine for awhile then all of a sudden it will be printing fine an the printhead intermittently will jump to the center of the carriage and start printing from there.
Also, when you turn it on, many times the printhead jams over to the right side of the carriage and the gears grind and you have to cycle it on and off to get it to start up right. Then you now almost for sure it will have problems printing. Help, any ideas? Het bevat ongeveer 40 pinnetjes die uitsteken. Heeft u de sloten niet kunnen vinden kijk dan even op de motherboard layout van PcInside of in de handleiding van uw moederbord.
Stap 3: Bij een SATA kabel kan er altijd slechts 1 apparaat per kabel worden aangesloten en heeft u dus altijd een nieuwe kabel nodig. Elke kabel kan maar op 1 manier worden aangesloten door de gebruikte L vorm. Aansluiten van de interface kabel op de harde schijf Sluit het passende kabel einde aan op de overeenkomende opening aan de achterzijde van de harde schijf.
In enkele gevallen kan het handiger zijn eerst stap 5 te volgen. Stap 5: De harde schijf moet in de daarvoor bestemde drive bay worden geschoven. Afhankelijk van uw kast moet u hierna de schijf vastschroeven aan de zijkanten, of vastklikken.
Sommige kasten hebben een zogenaamde hdd cage kooi , deze is vaak uitneembaar door het losdraaien van enkele schroeven. Dit komt echter zelden voor. Traditionele plaatsing Schuif via de binnenkant van de pc de harde schijf in de daarvoor bestemde drivebay onder de cdrom spelers. Gebruik vervolgens het kliksysteem. Indien niet aanwezig schroef dan de harde schijf vast aan beide kanten. U zult de rechter deur van de pc moeten verwijderen om de rechter vast te schroeven.
Zijdelingse plaatsing Steeds vaker worden schijven zijdelings in de kast geplaatst.
Als gamer wil je graag overal en zo vaak mogelijk je games kunnen spelen en daarom wil je graag de beste gaming laptop aanschaffen die er te krijgen is. Maar welke is goed genoeg voor jou? Welke gaming laptop past bij jou? Ben je een fanatieke gamer die graag games met meerderen speelt? Een laptop biedt dan de beste mogelijkheid daarvoor aangezien je die overal mee naartoe kunt nemen. Maar niet alle laptops zijn daarvoor geschikt. Je hebt er een nodig waarmee je zware grafische taken kunt uitvoeren en waar je games zonder haperingen op kunt spelen. Ben je niet per se op zoek naar een laptop om mee te gamen?